As wine producers the world over compete for cons umers ’ attention, California too is spreading its regional wings be yond the fam Iliar – and formidable – names of Napa and Sonoma. Our whirlwind “alpha taster ’s to ur” proves there ’s plent y to offer at ever y level aro und the Golden State – and might even piq ue your interest for a visit.

A is for Amador County, a charming, rugged enclave in the Sierra Foothills east of San Francisco, steeped in history from the first great California Gold Rush, many of whose pioneers sowed the seeds of the modern wine industry. It’s renowned for “old style” hearty, spicy Zinfandel, grown in lean, mean volcanic granite soils.

Los Carneros is a little patch linking Napa and Sonoma that wallows in morning fogs from San Francisco Bay, producing perfect cool-climate growing conditions. Look for good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, often with a Burgundian twist – and some good sparklers too with strong connections to Champagne and cava producers.

Livermore, just 63 km south of the Bay Bridge, traces its first plantings to Spanish missionaries, who in the 1760s brought vines that later formed the foundation for much of the modern industry. Livermore Valley is home to, among others, Wente (founded 1883) – which put California on the map for its 1889 Paris Exposition medal-winning Chardonnay, now the most widely planted Chardonnay clone on the continent.

Lodi is defined by the vast Central Valley, home to California’s agricultural heartland. Grapes from here have long formed the backbone of the state’s wine industry, but the region is only now beginning to receive its dues. Vineyards that once shipped grapes to the big-name Napa wineries are starting to come into their own, and wineries elsewhere are beginning to recognize the region once known only for bulk wines.

Monterey is home to Cannery Row – immortalized by John Steinbeck – but it’s also the centre of Monterey County’s flourishing wine touring region, dotted with wineries such as Château Julien, Bernardus, Jekel and Hahn. The perfect jumping-off point, a tasting trip from here can meander down the coast, all the way to Santa Maria and Santa Barbara.

Napa is known for big reds – and often even bigger prices, for wines that put Bordeaux on notice that California had arrived – and forever banishing the notion that good wine comes only from France. California’s flagship is home to some 400 wineries, making wines of every variety and price point. Dig around to find some budget-friendly drops in just about all varieties.

Paso – as in Paso Robles, within spitting distance of Hearst Castle on the Central Coast, where vines have taken over from walnuts – is home to some of the most independent-minded vintners anywhere. While many others focused on Bordeaux, Paso turned to the Rhône Valley for its inspiration – and spawned a generation of Syrah-lovin’ “Rhône Rangers,” who get together annually to host the world’s largest tasting of Rhône varietals at Hospice du Rhône.

Santa Maria Valey – along with the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Rita Hills and Los Alamos – offers some of California’s prettiest wine touring, with wines to match. It was in these parts that Pinot Noir, propelled to stardom by the movie Sideways, scored its knockout punch over Merlot. In fact, you can claim a booth in the Hitching Post restaurant, sip owner Frank Ostini’s wines and pretend you’re Giles – if you must. But no dumping the spit bucket, please!

Sonoma has the best of both worlds, thanks to a lengthy growing season with ideal cool-climate influence from maritime fogs that waft in daily like clockwork and drive acidity. Sonoma is also known for a wide range of varieties that alway seem to deliver, from Burgundian-tuned Pinots and Chards to crisp Sauvignon Blancs.

Z stands, of course, for Zinfandel, the grape closest to every Californian’s heart, and the one almost everyone seems to grow. Just how crazy are Californians for Zin? All you have to do to find out is to take in Zap! – the world’s largest single-varietal (and wackiest) wine celebration like no other, that every year draws thousands of inky, purple-stained teeth, manic fans (plus hundreds of wineries) to Fort Mason on San Franciso’s shores. You can book now for next year’s extravaganza, January 28-31, 2009. For details, visit www.zinfandel.org.