By Rhys Pender, MW
Rhys Pender, who became Canada's Youngest Master of Wine in 2010, is a wine educator, consultant, judge, and freelance writer. He contributes regularly to Taste, Wine Access, Montecristo and Savour Magazines.

The Master of Wine (MW) is recognized as the highest achievable qualification in the wine world. It is an incredibly rigorous undertaking and takes significant devotion in terms of time, finances, mental energy and family support. However difficult it is, the MW journey is an amazing process that provides a unique understanding of the complex world of wine.

The qualification itself is governed by the Institute of Masters of Wine. Based in the United Kingdom, the Institute began in 1955 with qualification available for the British wine trade only. It wasn’t until 1984 that the examination opened to those working outside the trade and then in 1988 went global with the qualification of the first non-British Master of Wine. Currently there are 289 MWs from 23 different countries, four of them Canadian, including BC Liquor Distribution Branch Portfolio Manager, Barbara Philip and regular TASTE contributer, James Cluer.

There is no shortcut to becoming a Master of Wine. Many people begin the journey by taking a series of wine courses such as the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET). These courses aren’t mandatory but a very high level of wine knowledge is essential to even contemplate the MW program. Working through the WSET and completing the WSET Diploma will give you a good start to move on to the MW. Completing all levels of the WSET courses takes at least four years.

Every summer, applications open for the Master of Wine Study Program. On signing up, you must submit a theory and a practical assignment. Yes, “practical” in wine education speak means tasting! You also need a reference from a MW or senior person in the wine industry. Once accepted to the program, the first commitment is to attend a week-long seminar in either Europe, North America or Australia. Current MWs volunteer their time to help students in their studies. It can be a demanding, intense and very intimidating week. More than one student has dropped out during the seminar, already feeling the pressure.

On surviving the first year seminar, you will be assigned a mentor and be required to submit a number of theory assignments. In June you are asked to submit an assignment that is marked by the Institute of Masters of Wine and with feedback from your mentor it is determined whether or not you are ready to progress to second year or be held back to redo year one. If you move on to second year status, your program of events at the next annual seminar will be geared to helping to prepare you for the MW final exam.

The three-day final exam is held around the world on the same dates in June. There are three components to the exam: theory, practical and on passing those, a dissertation. The stress associated with preparing for the exam is considerable as the closer you get to being ready, the more daunting you realize the task actually is. Each day of the exam consists of a practical exam in the morning and a theory exam in the afternoon. In between you are likely sitting in your hotel room preparing, preparing and preparing.

If you pass either the theory portion or the practical portion individually, the following year you only need to complete the other. You get three attempts to complete the second part. If you pass both, you move on to the final component of the MW qualification, the dissertation. The dissertation is a 10,000 word unique piece of research.
It is difficult to convey how strong the emotion is when passing any component of the exam. I remember literally lying on the floor having spasms of relief and joy. But the journey is a difficult one and unless you devote considerable resources to it you are unlikely to pass. I needed to spend at least two hours per day studying, practicing essays, blind tasting and preparing. Obviously you need a very supportive family to make this work. There is also the financial commitment. By the time the fees, travel, accommodation and wine is factored in, it will cost you at least $10,000 per year to pursue. For many the journey can last 10 or more years.

While all this might sound like enough to frighten away even the most devoted wine enthusiast, there is something amazing about becoming an MW. The global MW community is filled with some of the most interesting and inspiring people in the wine world. There is a general passion for wine that is shared with all and there is a great feeling of camaraderie amongst those who have battled successfully through the program.

I hope you stick with it, let your passion drive you and good luck with your pursuit of the MW!
 

Back in the early 1990s, Harry McWatters, the founder of Sumac Ridge winery, was told by all his friends and financial advisors not to buy vineyard land on the Black Sage Bench. They thought he was crazy to pay the asking price of $3,000 per acre. Fast forward 20 years and that same land was worth over $200,000 an acre and had produced some very good wine.

This proves that it’s dangerous to judge whether something is a good idea or not but here are some basic facts about the market. A planted vineyard is currently selling for somewhere between $100,000 and $250,000 per acre. The Naramata Bench and parts of the southern Okanagan are on the higher side and parts of the Similkameen cost less. But you do often get what you pay for.

If you plan on selling the grapes, then you’ll have to find a buyer. Buyers usually pay by the ton, and the price varies according to variety and quality. The average prices paid are published every year by the BC Wine Institute. Growers often count on producing about four to five tons per acre and selling the grapes for $2,000-$3,000 per ton. But both prices paid for grapes and the tonnages grown can be higher and lower than the figures quoted.

So if you had a nice little three acre vineyard planted with a high quality grape and you cropped it at four tons per acre you could probably grow about 12 tons of grapes and might sell them at $2,500 per ton. That would create $30,000 in annual revenue.

But of course, you’ll have various expenses to manage the vineyard, including things like labour, water and sprays. You can reduce expenses by doing some of the work yourself, but otherwise you would have to hire a grape grower to take care of it for you. Expect to pay a vineyard manager somewhere between $4,000 to $6,000 per acre, or somewhere around $15,000 for your three acres, per year.
In theory you should make a small profit, but don’t forget that actually you’ve signed up to become a farmer. The weather is now your partner and in the Okanagan and Similkameen severe frosts and winter freezes can be devastating. There are growers who have lost their entire crops to winter kill in the last few years. No doubt these growers will tell you it’s not a good idea to own a vineyard. Add to that the fact that disease can cause serious problems, severely reducing yields and the market for grapes can fluctuate too. There’s a long list of other risks and dangers of owning a vineyard, but that would probably put you off.

What the analysis doesn’t account for is that this is your dream. Who wouldn’t want to own a vineyard, walk through the rows of vines, tasting grapes in anticipation of the upcoming harvest? It’s magical and it can work financially, because there is no shortage of vineyards in the world.

Just make sure you select a very good vineyard site that minimizes the viticultural risks, ensure it is planted with a grape in high demand, managed by a skillful grower and get a buyer lined up well before harvest. Getting some good advice before you set sail is your first, smart move.