Our “Signature Selections” feature showcases exclusive, harder-to-find products that are available only at the 21 Signature BC Liquor Stores across British Columbia. These are larger stores that carry a wider choice of wines, beers and spirits and offer the expertise of trained Product Consultants, who are more than happy to advise, suggest, explain and answer any questions about the huge selection. If there is not a Signature BC Liquor Store near you, remember that all the products here can be quickly and easily transferred to your nearest BC Liquor Store. Just ask at the Customer Service desk.
This installment of “Signature Selections” was contributed by Stephen Schiedel, Portfolio Manager, Wines of the Americas, at the BC Liquor Distribution Branch. Stephen has seen many trends come and go over the years. Back in 1979, when Stephen first worked in a liquor store as holiday help, the stores were vastly different to those of today. Many were still counter service, and the product selection was a mere fraction of what you see in BC Liquor Stores today.
Becoming a store clerk at the 39th & Cambie flagship store opened up a world of product and discerning customers for him. In-house Product Knowledge courses and later, Master of Wine study sessions, provided him a wider background in the world of wine. Working with the dynamic Wines of the Americas portfolio since 2003 has allowed Stephen to build on his marketing education to find the right product at the right price for the customer. Here he shares some insight on current trends in BC Liquor Stores and also a glimpse at what is up-and-coming in the near future.
“We are increasingly customer-focused at BC Liquor Stores and the wine intelligence of our customers means we have to be equally wine savvy to meet their needs today and, more importantly, tomorrow.”
- Stephen Schiedel, Portfolio Manager, BC Liquor Distribution Branch
Argentine Malbec
Until a few years ago, very little Argentine wine was exported, as most of what was produced was consumed by the domestic market. That has changed dramatically and has since opened up a vast untapped wine source, with Malbec becoming Argentina’s premium red wine of choice. This once obscure French variety from Cahors and Bordeaux has blossomed in the radically different growing conditions of Argentina. Today in BC, Argentine Malbec has become a mainstream consumer choice alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. That’s a substantial achievement in just a few years. Why has Malbec become so popular? Beyond its sheer value for money, fruit-driven Malbec grown in Argentina offers a cornucopia of red and black fruits, floral hints and a grapeyness not found elsewhere. In short, Malbec is what wine drinkers think red wine should taste like! A little more sophistication in the variety comes from more select Mendoza zones of production. An excellent introduction to this grape would be the Malbec La Posta Pizzella Vineyard, from the Uco Valley.
Stephen suggests: La Posta Malbec - Pizella Family Vineyard.
BC VQA White Blends
Top-selling whites in the market include homegrown BC VQA wines, many of which are proprietarily named or marketed as multi-varietals. This differs from the U.S. market, for example, where single varietals dominate almost to the exclusion of all others. These BC wines can all trace their roots, figuratively at least, back to the first vinifera plantings in the Okanagan Valley in 1968. Based on Germanic aromatic varietals, BC VQA whites offer a spice and fruitiness with distinctive crisp acidity that is found in this more northerly growing location. My intuition as to why these BC white blends sell so well? They pair better with the Pacific Rim cuisine that is everyday fare here. A mouthful of fruity richness works so well with sushi, curry and other spicy dishes. Another factor contributing to their popularity is our West Coast weather that allows outdoor grilling most of the year. A top example of a BC VQA white blend is one from Quails’ Gate, who have parlayed the old vine table grape Chasselas into a contender by adding some fruity Pinot Blanc and fuller-bodied complexity from Pinot Gris.
Stephen suggests: Quails' Gate Chasselas Pinot Blanc Pinot Gris.
California
California has jumped back into the driver’s seat becoming a consumer comfort zone for everyday through more premium wines. This is not only unique to BC but also across Canada. Plus the new look of casual, colourful wine branding from California seems to connect with consumers who are looking for something new.
California wines first appeared in BC many years ago with the chocolate and vanilla varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. These are still consumers’ favourites but there is so much more to discover. The resilient California wine industry has kept evolving, working from its strengths of climate and varietal such that now it finds itself offering better value then ever before. An educated guess is that California is back on top because consumers can now appreciate the fuller expression – for less – of California whether it is Lodi, Amador, Paso Robles, Central Coast, Mendocino, Sonoma or Napa Valley. A good example is the Hahn Monterey Pinot Noir. With extensive vineyards in the Central Coast area they are able to craft an appealing expression of the grape, with just the right amount of the fruitiness one expects from California. Look for some silky texture and a long finish.
Stephen suggests: Hahn Monterey Pinot Noir.
Single Vineyard
All wine comes from vineyards, but the ability to dial in to a more specific locale usually results in more personality and character of site. The ultimate is a single vineyard or plot that has superior defined parameters of sun exposure, drainage, etc. Rather than diluting the wine via multiple vineyard sources, single-vineyard wines deliver the concentration of that individual vineyard into the glass.
In 1993, when I had the opportunity to work the harvest at Sumac Ridge for a week, proprietor Harry McWatters included a visit down south to the Black Sage Road to see a new vineyard site. This vineyard investment was the start of much of what we see in the Okanagan today. The south Okanagan is where the majority of BC wine is produced, especially reds. Sumac Black Sage Vineyard is planted primarily to Bordeaux varietals and the Sumac Black Sage Vineyard Merlot offers a full-bodied profile of black fruits, plum, oak structure and telltale earthy Black Sage character.
Stephen suggests: Sumac Ridge Merlot Black Sage 2009.
Extreme Terroir
New wine regions can have a tough time measuring up to Old World standard bearers that often boast centuries of history and commercial success. One such potential contender might be Chile’s Elqui Valley. Chile’s most northerly wine region at the southern edge of the Atacama desert is a narrow west-east valley that funnels the cool, foggy Pacific Ocean air inwards into an extreme of dryness. Irrigation from the Andes is the only way to get anything to grow here. Extreme winds necessitate wind screens on the steep slopes that extend upwards into the Andes. This is high-altitude viticulture at over 2000 meters above sea level.
At Falernia, they take it to another level by planting a vineyard on an old river bed, or partially drying the grapes on the vine as is done in Italy. The results from their various vineyards seem to yield excellent wines, offering freshness of concentrated varietal fruit and something more: a special sense of a wine from somewhere. Falernia Carménère is one such example, with ripe varietal notes and a fullness of soft tannins plus an Old World structure that is most pleasing. From an extreme growing condition comes an extreme expression in the glass!
Stephen suggests: Falernia Reserva Elqui Valley Carmènére.
California 2007 Vintage
The 2007 vintage in California and in particular Napa Valley seems to be a standout year. There is an undeniable lushness to the wines as Mother Nature allowed a bit more sunshine and favourable conditions to ripen the grapes perfectly. Perhaps a stretch, but it is almost like the 1982 Bordeaux vintage that became a modern benchmark. In Napa there is widespread confidence as the wineries have greater history to work from and are also more adept at mastering their diverse soils and vineyard exposures. Whether valley floor through hillside locations, there are more nuances to appreciate and there has been the investment capacity to support making better wines. As well the replanting of the 1990s after phylloxera challenges finds the vineyards working at full strength again. As a counter to power there is also a direction to using more Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec in the blend for complexity and elegance. These wines can offer consumption today but really can go into the cellar for five to ten years easily to develop more complexity and harmony.
The Regusci winery has a 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon that is a textbook example of the vintage. Stags’ Leap District on the southeast side of the valley has long been the source of complexity and structure in Napa Cabernets. This is highly recommended.
Stephen suggests: Regusci Stags' Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.
