Changes are afoot in the world of whisky as 20-somethings – men and women alike – increasingly get their noses into single malt scotch. No longer are they the sole provenance of the dark corners of smoky gentleman’s clubs. Single malt Scotch devotees, sometimes called “maltheads,” are a breed apart and relish this intriguing whisky with good reason.
Single malt expert and author Michael Jackson sings their praises. He contends that they are the most natural of spirits, formed by their environment and individualistic as they are. Plus there’s a single malt for every occasion from a pre-dinner aperitif or post-meal digestif, to a dram after round of golf or with a good book.
For those new to the fold, single malt Scotch is just that. The whisky is the product of a single distillery made from barley malt (infused with water, fermented with yeast and distilled – usually two times – in a copper pot-still). Both the distillation and maturation must take place in Scotland. No exceptions.
Single malt Scotches can be elegant, assertive, even beguiling. Depending on where they’re made, they may sport varied notes of heather, saltiness, sweetness and smokiness. They’re as different as the four distinct whisky regions that they hail from.
The Highlands
The Highlands is the largest region and encompasses the Northern, Western, and Eastern Highlands, the Midlands, Speyside and the Islands (the Orkneys, Skye, Jura, Arran and Mull). Speyside has Scotland’s largest concentration of whisky producers, about 60 percent of the country’s malt distilleries.
Because of the size of the Highlands region, the style of its whiskies varies widely. Speyside single malts tend to be sweeter and of varying strengths and often display a refined, earthy, elegant smokiness. Some better known examples include internationally renowned The Glenfiddich (the 12-Year-Old is the best selling single malt on the planet), Glenlivet (second top-seller), and The Macallan. Others of note include The BenRiach, Cardhu, Tomintoul and Glenfarclas. Whiskies from the Western Highlands are apt to be round, firm and dry with some peatiness – think Ben Nevis and Oban. The Northern Highlands produce single malts with spicy, heathery characteristics that reflect its coastal influences and the heather peat. The Eastern Highlands (think Dalwhinnie), and the Midlands are sheltered from coastal influences and distill fruity single malts like Tullibardine.
The Lowlands
The Lowlands region is in the southern part of Scotland from the Clyde Estuary to the River Tay. Whiskies from this area such as Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie showcase the softness of the malt and are sometimes called “Lowland Ladies.” These tend to be light, smooth and sometimes floral.
Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre peninsula was once home to almost 30 distilleries, but most closed during American prohibition when bootleg malts were labeled as coming from Campbeltown. Today there are but two – Glen Scotia and Springbank – distinguished by their briny character.
Windswept Islay (pronounced eye-luh) is home to eight distilleries. The Island’s peaty soil combined with harsh wind, plentiful rain and sea exposure contribute to producing some of the boldest single malts anywhere. Think Bruichladdich, Bowmore, Laphroaig and Lagavulin. They’re strong, smoky and salty with lashings of seaweed and iodine. The peatiest are sometimes called “peat monsters.” Taste and you’ll know why.
Peat brings smokiness to whisky. It may come from water seeping through peat or permeating the malted barley when it’s dried in a peat-fired kiln. The longer the exposure to the peat fire, the smokier it will be. Not a fan of peat? Try Caol Ila 8-Year-Old Unpeated or Speyside whiskies, which are fruity and mostly unpeated.
Aging is important and by law single malts must mature in oak barrels for three years. These barrels give colour and flavour to the whisky and depending on their previous use as sherry, bourbon, port or wine casks, they impart different flavours to the spirit. Examples? BenRiach 15-Year-Old Tawny Port Finish and Edradour 1997 SFTC Châteauneuf-du-Pape Finish Cask Strength.
When the whiskies are bottled they’re diluted with water reducing them from about 60 percent alcohol by volume to about 40 percent. Some, like Macallan Cask Strength and The Ileach Peaty Cask Strength, are bottled undiluted – at “cask strength.”
You’ll sometimes see the words “single cask” on Scotch bottles, as in Arran Malt Sherry Single Cask. This means that the whisky is from one cask. Most single malts are a blend of a distillery’s casks and deliver a consistent style.
Some Scotches are labeled 10, 12 or 18 years old, which denotes the age of the youngest whisky in the blend. If undated, they will have undergone at least three years in cask before bottling.
Which one is best? Single malts vary widely. Some are dry, some are sweet and light and others are wickedly smoky, full-bodied and assertive. How to choose? Taste widely.
If a trip to Scotland isn’t in the cards, getting cosy with malthead pals may get you a taste or two. Be mindful that single malts are best appreciated neat or with a wee splash of tepid water to bring out the aromatics. That lovely dram – an ounce is plenty – should be savoured in six or seven small sips. Toss it back and you’ll probably not be offered more.
Or try before you buy. Visit a Scotch-centric establishment such as Shebeen Whisk[e]y House, a 60-seat, almost-secret room in the alley behind the Irish Heather in Gastown, or consider attending Hopscotch, an annual festival of whiskies and beer (and other spirits) and explore. Hopscotch is in Kelowna on September 24th and Vancouver from November 14th to 20th. Visit www.hopscotchfestival.com for more information.
Try these Single Malt Scotch whiskies available in BC Liquor Stores. (Click on the products to find out where to buy.)
This classic orkney 18-yearold single malt, considered one of the world’s best, was whisky Bible’s 2011 Single Malt Scotch of the year for ages 16 to 21. it’s redolent with heathery peat, honey and smoke and is complex, and slightly salty with nutty, honey and spice flavours, finishing long, spicy and ultra smoky. (orkney islands, highlands)
This highly esteemed, classic dry islay single malt – matured in beachside sheds – has powerful peat smoke and salt that leap out of the glass. it is laced with bracing iodine and seaweed with fruity, floral notes chased with dust and smoke. This revered “peat monster” rolls out powerful, salty peaty, medicinal notes in a long finish. (islay)
Campbeltown malts, Springbank is distilled two-and-a-half times. Light in colour, with aromas of citrus, pear, herbs and a little smoky peat, it’s smooth, appealingly briny, slightly malty and nutty, with some light toastiness. it finishes tangy, and a little sweet. (Campbeltown)
Well-balanced and easy drinking, Bruichladdich is fresh and lively, even elegant, and gently peated with spicy sweet fruit and whiffs of smoke, salt and seaweed that washes over the palate together with sweet peat. it finishes medium-long, with fruit, spice and mellow peat notes. (islay)
The hugely popular Curiositas is a return to the style and character of 19th century Speyside malts. This overtly gentle whisky has overtones of peat reek, wellintegrated sweet notes of honey, fruit, heather and malt with a long, nicely balanced, dry, oaky, smoky finish. (Speyside, highlands)
The Auchentoshan, an easy drinking, triple-distilled lowlands single malt is an ideal stepping stone into the world of single malts. it’s fragrant, fresh and light with fruity, nutty aromas and flavours of citrus, coconut, spice and malt. it’s clean and balanced with a swift crisp finish. (lowlands)
